A palm grove and a cove near Tsoutsouros, Crete

This place is kind of lost in time and feels as remote as it gets on Crete. This island is quite populated  and visited by millions of tourists, but if you want to stay in the middle of [beautiful] nowhere, camp here for a night or two.

view 0000 Kefalovrisi, Crete, Greece

I don’t even know what this place is called: if you look at Google maps, it says ‘Kefalovrisi’ above this spot, but this name is not mentioned anywhere else. The nearest village is Tsoutsouros. The sign was very welcoming 😉

Crete, Greece

We got an idea to visit it, because we read it was one of only a handful of places with natural palm tree growth in Crete (and in Greece, and actually Europe overall). Cretan date palm is only one of the two palm species native to European continent (the other one being dwarf fan palm that I saw near Sitges). There is a couple of bigger palm forests in Crete, but they seem to be located in more heavily visited parts of the island. This grove was mentioned on some websites though, and we decided to check it out.

view 0001 Kefalovrisi, Crete, Greece

On the way from a small village called Tsoutsouros, we hardly saw any cars/people, but we were welcomed by numerous goats.

goat 0000 Kefalovrisi, Crete, Greece

The goats seemed to be curious about such rare visitors, but they were neither afraid of us nor did they bother us.

view 0006 Kefalovrisi, Crete, Greece

The palm grove provided a very picturesque view giving the place Middle-Eastern touch.

naturist 0008 Kefalovrisi, Crete, Greece

While such a palm grove would be easier to find somewhere in North Africa or Middle East, it would be difficult to find one where we could walk around naked, so we had to put to good use the fact that we could do it there in Crete.

naturist 0006 Kefalovrisi, Crete, Greece

I was certainly in a posing mood, of which Joe gladly took advantage.

naturist 0007 Kefalovrisi, Crete, Greece

I tried to climb one of the palm trees (I often do, as you may know), naturist 0003 Kefalovrisi, Crete, Greece

but it was more difficult than it seemed.

naturist 0004 Kefalovrisi, Crete, Greece

So I resorted to some classical poses 🙂

naturist 0005 Kefalovrisi, Crete, Greece

While we were busy with nude photography, two hoopoes sat on the shrub nearby, but unfortunately we didn’t have a tele-lens handy, so these are the best pictures we could snatch.

hoopoe 0000 Kefalovrisi, Crete, Greecehoopoe 0001 Kefalovrisi, Crete, Greece

After having spent quite a bit of time at the palm grove, we decided to go down and check access to the sea.

naturist 0012 Kefalovrisi, Crete, Greece

We saw a lonely palm-tree hidden between the cliffs by the water and thought it should be a nice place to hang out. I couldn’t help thinking of a poem by Mikhail Lermontov about a lonely pine-tree covered by snow somewhere in the North and dreaming of similarly lonely palm-tree on a sunburnt rock somewhere in the South.

date palm 0000 Crete, Greece

When we came down, we were certain to keep the lonely palm-tree a company for the evening and night:

naturist 0002 Kefalovrisi, Crete, Greece

there was a cozy cave under the rock with a nice view,

view 0005 Kefalovrisi, Crete, Greece

and a cove with easy access to the sea on the other side.

view 0007 Kefalovrisi, Crete, Greece

Some rock formations around had quite peculiar shapes, especially at dusk.

view 0002 Kefalovrisi, Crete, Greece

We left for another walk

naturist 0010 Kefalovrisi, Crete, Greece

and saw the full moon rise above the sea.

view 0003 Kefalovrisi, Crete, Greece

 

naturist 0009 Kefalovrisi, Crete, Greece

We found some dried bases of palm leaves scattered around that we thought would make a perfect firewood.

naturist 0011 Kefalovrisi, Crete, Greece

The night was very warm, as it usually happens in September in Crete, but you cannot spoil the night with a bit of fire.

naturist 0001 Kefalovrisi, Crete, Greece

We also ventured for a night swim under the starry sky, and that was where I saw the brightest bioluminescence ever! Unfortunately, my underwater camera still wouldn’t be able to catch it. But we were mesmerized by the phenomenon: the water in the cove was very calm and clear, and the bioluminescent plankton would react to any movement in water; it was especially spectacular to see another person swimming underwater.

view 0008 Kefalovrisi, Crete, Greece

We woke up quite late in the morning, as we were protected from the sun by the rock.

naturist 0000 Kefalovrisi, Crete, Greece

Cretan pastry was a perfect energy-rich addition to our breakfast!

cretan pastry 0000 Kefalovrisi, Crete, Greece

So we went for another swim in the morning, all the way around the cliffs, where we saw some other people sunbathing and swimming (also naked). This time we didn’t see anything spectacular in the water… until the very end, when I spotted a bearded fireworm. Well, at that moment I didn’t know the exact name, I only knew it was a representative of polychaete, a distant relative of earth worms… Neither did I know that it was a very dangerous animal actually! According to Wikipedia, the bearded fireworm “is not considered a threat to humans unless touched by a careless swimmer. The bristles, when flared, can penetrate human skin, injecting a powerful neurotoxin and producing intense irritation and a painful burning sensation around the area of contact. The sting can also lead to nausea and dizziness. This sensation lasts up to a few hours, but a painful tingling can continue to be felt around the area of contact. In a case of accidental contact, application and removal of adhesive tape will help remove the spines; applying alcohol to the area will also help alleviate the pain.”

bearded fireworm 0000 Kefalovrisi, Crete, Greece

Luckily, at that moment I was just happy observing how that fireworm was moving graciously through the algae on the rocks…

goats 0000 Kefalovrisi, Crete, Greece

As we were leaving, again only goats were around to say good-bye.

goats 0001 Kefalovrisi, Crete, Greece

goats 0000 Kefalovrisi, Crete, Greece

It was quite a dangerous ride uphill on a dirt road, but it gave us another chance for a glance over the cove.

view 0004 Kefalovrisi, Crete, Greece

12 thoughts on “A palm grove and a cove near Tsoutsouros, Crete

  1. This past June, I visited Crete and got to sample a few of the beaches there, but not this one! Now I know of another beach to go to not far from where I stay in Achlia, near Ierapetra. I enjoy reading your blog entries! Thank you for sharing.

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  2. Man! What adventure!!! Sounds really great and amazing!!! Love all the new horizons you show to us! Great! Big hugs, Kyrillos! Amauri from Sao Paulo, Brazil

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  3. what a truly amazing naked day, night and morning that must of been (waking up naked in nature/and in such an outstanding place must be unreal!).Thanks for sharing it all with us….I’m still a bit mesmerized in just how unforgettable that night swim must of been like.

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  4. What a terrific post. You make it interesting by including additional information about what you see, very academic, obviously you are a life-long learner and we all benefit from that.

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  5. I love all your nude travelogues and can’t help but be a bit envious at some of the locations you discover. Thanks for another armchair-travelling experience!

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